85 lbs. and 85 lbs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are there any circumstances that would occur where a beekeeper would want to feed sugar syrup to a hive that had ample stores of honey?
Yes, we can think of four different situations where a beekeeper may want to feed sugar syrup.
- To stimulate brood production,
- To medicate
- To prevent the bees from opening cells in comb honey production and
- To flush or prime a cell-raising colony
Is there a recipe to make a medicinal patty for prevention of foulbrood?
Yes, the ‘terri-patty’ recipe follows here. It’s used for the control of both American and European fouldbrood PLUS aids in the control of trachael mites. Take 1/3 lb. of Crisco, 2/3 lb. of granulated sugar and 2 tablespoons of terramycin. Mix well. Make four 1/4 lb. patties. Put patties on 7 X 7 inch newspaper or waxed paper. Put paper with patties between the two brood chambers on top of the top bars. We recommend 1/2 lb. per colony per year.
Can I use menthol for the control of varroa mites?
Menthol is used primarily and exclusively for the control of tracheal mites. It does not work well or at all on Varroa mites because of their development cycle and where it takes place. Varroa adults are just too big to be affected significantly by menthol vapors.
How many times per year should I treat my colonies for varroa mites?
Although this seems like a simple question, a couple of thoughts come to mind:
- If you treat once a year, the chance of your own population of mites building up increases because of the time between treatments. Plus you have to be aware that drifting bees will be bringing mites into a particular hive all the time.
- If you treat too often, then you are accelerating the selection, (survival of the fittest) of the mites most resistant to the mite treatment. These mites breed and, of course, you have a population of mites that is resistant to a particular miticide. There has to be a happy medium somewhere. We suggest starting off with treating in the spring before buildup and honeyflows and in the fall in preparation for winter. Twice-a-year treatments are important in areas with a high density of colonies as well as high varroa mite populations. You will have to adjust your treatments as you get a feel for the seriousness of the varroa problem in your area.
Does Western Bee sell bees?
For several years, Western Bee has supplied bees to local beekeepers/hobbyists in the spring. This is a one-time deal each year and we require customers to be here on specific day to pick up their bees.
Do you have dealer network across the country?
Yes, we work with about 15-20 dealers. If you would like to know of the name and address of the dealer(s) nearest you, just e-mail us. If there is enough interest, we may add a page to our site listing all dealers across North America. We recommend you always check out our monthly specials, though, as they apply to deals here at Western Bee only.
What difference does it make as to the kind of pine used in woodenware? Pine is pine, isn’t it?
This is one of the biggest misconceptions we see in our industry. All pines are a softwood, but there is a big difference in the amount of resin each type of pine has inherently. Think of resin as the “glue” that keeps wood from slivering, flaking and drying out to a point it is that the wood is “punky” or too soft. The most common “punky” wood used in bee supplies are Eastern White Pine and Spruce. We use Ponderosa Pine exclusively. Whereas a White Pine or Spruce hive body may last 8-10 years, Ponderosa Pine will last at least twice as long. This ratio applies to frames, covers and other woodenware as well. Yet the price is comparable. This is why our major competitors buy at least some of their woodenware from us each year. Do yourself a favor and ask what wood species is going into your purchase and steer away from anything that isn’t Ponderosa Pine.